A board fence is a traditional fence which can provide privacy
(if high enough), is fairly attractive and robust and is fairly
easy to maintain.
The method of post and rail construction are given on this page,
this page on Board Fencing addresses the cladding of the posts
and rails.
There are two basic choices of planking available:
1. Feather-edged timber.
2. Sawn, square timber.
Feather-edged timber is rough
sawn and each plank is tapered across its width, various widths are
available, typically ranging from 125mm (5 inch) to 225mm (9 inch).
The tapering typically 18mm (0.75 inch) to 6mm (0.25 inch).
Sawn, square timber is rough
sawn and each plank has a uniform thickness (normally 12mm (0.5 inch)
to 18mm (0.75 inch)) across its width, the choice of widths typically
being from 125mm (5 inch) to 225mm (9 inch).
Both types of plank are normally erected vertically with an overlap
by about 25 mm (1 inch) with the thicker edge of feather-edged planks
being on top of the lower plank, and using one nail passing through
both planks into the rails. Alternatively, sawn, square timber can
be butted up 'edge to edge' and each plank nailed separately to the
rails.
Gravel board
Where the bottom of the fence is to ground level, a gravel board should
be fitted below the fence planks. The gravel board is normally of
a hard timber (such as oak) to withstand the damp rising from the
ground. If the gravel boards do rot, they can be replaced without
having to dismantle the complete fence. Where a fence is erected above
masonry or concrete, there should be a clearance of at least 5mm (quarter
inch) under the gravel boards - this should prevent the bottom of
the boards becoming waterlogged providing it is kept clear of material
build-up.
Fence boarding
The easiest method of erecting a board fence is to use cant
rails on the front face of the fence posts, this allows a continuous
run of planking along the full length. An alternative method
is to fit arris (or cant) rails between the posts, flush with
the front face, the planking can then be fitted to the rails
and across the front of the posts.
Another alternative method is to fit arris (or cant) rails between
the posts, but set back from the front face, and then fit the
planking to the rails between the posts - personally, the former
arrangements giving a continuous run of planks making it easier
to put on the planks and the finished fence looks better.
Before starting to assemble overlapping boarding, make up
a stepped guide (as right) so that each board can be easily
set-up - the depth of the step needs to be the width of the
plank less the desired overlap.
Before nailing the first and each subsequent plank, check:
•
The length of the plank - it needs to go from the top of the
gravel board to the desired height.
•
The angle of the bottom of the plank - if the fence is not
on level ground, the gravel board will be at an angle, the bottom
of the plank must reflect this angle.
•
You need to think about these points concerning the top of
the planks:
If the fence is on level ground, the planks can be cut to
size before fitting.
On sloping ground:
1. The tops can be cut at an angle before fitting to give
a smooth line,
2. The tops can be left square to give a 'stepped' appearance
- this is generally best suited where the slope is gentle
- where each sequential plank has a step of less than about
6mm (0.5 inch).
3. The tops can be left to be tidied up after the fence is
complete.
If the fence is on level ground, the planks can be cut to size before
fitting.
On sloping ground:
The tops can be cut at an angle before fitting to give a smooth line,
or
The tops can be left square to give a 'stepped' appearance - this
is generally best suited where the slope is gentle - where each sequential
plank has a step of less than about 6mm (0.5 inch).
The tops can be left to be tidied up after the fence is complete.
With the posts, rails and gravel boards in place, position the first
plank in place at one end of the fence. With an overlapping plank
fence, the first plank can be fitted flat to the rails or a small
strip (the same width as the intended overlap - about 25mm (1 inch))
of suitable timber placed under one edge (the edge away from the rest
of the fence) to give the same angle of lift as the rest of the fence
planking. With feather-edged planks, the thick edge needs to be the
first edge nailed and must go away from the rest fence. When you have
checked the first plank to make sure that it is the right length and
the ends have been trimmed to suit the gravel board and the top edge
(if necessary):
•
Offer up the plank, keep the plank about 3mm (1/8 inch) off
the gravel board, and with a thin strip of planking underneath
to get the face angle correct.
•
Use a spirit level to make sure that the plank is vertical.
•
Use galvanised nails to 'tack' the plank to the rails/post
- with plain galvanised nails, drive them in at an angle - alternatively,
use galvanised annular ring nails.
•
Check again with the spirit level that the plank is still
vertical after tacking, if it is - drive the nails home, if
it is not vertical, adjust the plank as necessary.
For each subsequent plank, check the cut angle of the bottom and the
length - offer it up to overlap onto the previous plank, use the spacer
to set the position horizontally, check the line of the top of the
plank with the previous plank and nail it in place so that the nail
is not too near the edge of the top plank, but the nail does go through
the edge of the plank underneath and into the rail. Check every fourth
or fifth plank with a spirit level to ensure that you continue to
fit them vertical, if necessary, adjust before continuing.
To trim the top of the fence if this was not done during construction,
stretch a chalked string line along the top of the fence against the
planks and pluck it to mark a line. Saw along the line to trim the
top of the fence to a single line.
When you have finished the fence, checked the fence to ensure that
nails have been driven home on each each plank, on each rail/post.
Treating the fence with timber preservative
The final job is to apply a good quality wood preservative (Note:
as of mid 2005, it is illegal to use creosote in the UK). Modern wood
preservatives are available in various colours, these tend to mellow
after a bit of weathering, but it's still worth thinking carefully
before choosing a bright/vibrant colour.
Before applying the preservative, read the manufacturer's instructions
carefully and take any recommend precautions - often this may entail
protecting the surrounding soil and garden plants and the use of appropriate
safety gear (goggles, gloves etc).
This article is reproduced
courtesy of DIYdata.com.
